Guide to Leather
Leather is one of nature's finest materials, and there is a vast range of options, quality, styles and finishes available. This document aims to give a brief overview of some of the key differences between different hides, and to highlight some of the key technical issues that may be faced when specifying leather. All terms that are used are consistent with the British Standard BS 2780;1983 that governs the sale and description of leather and leather products. The majority of hides used are bovine (cow or bull) but there are many other animal hides that are used for special finishes and looks.
Full Grain, Top Grain and Split Hides
All hides that Ben Whistler deals are topgrain hides. i.e. they are from the top layer of the hide after it has been through a splitting machine. If the hide is then dyed or pigmented without machining or buffing the hide so that the original grain can be seen, then it is called Full Grain. If it is machined and buffed and a new grain mechanically stamped then it is still called Top Grain and is always pigmented.
Split Leather (the lower portion of hide from this process) provides a smaller hide that is much weaker and is always pigmented, so we generally consider it less suitable for high end upholstery. Suede is made from the split hide, whereas Nubuck is made from the Top Grain and is a much finer finish than standard Suede.
Aniline Leather
This is considered to be the purest form of leather, with the most attention paid to keeping the characteristics and personality of the leather. These will tend to be the highest grade hides that are dyed with Aniline , rather than spray painted with a pigment, so natural growth marks and scars will always be visible, and many people consider this evidence of the finest leather. Because of the absence of artificial surface treatments this will have the softest feel and the richest look. This will also deliver a unique piece as no two aniline hides will be identical. In use these hides will acquire scuffs and abrasions, and will be marked by water; so it is important to assess the suitability of this type of leather for high-use applications such as contract furnishing or where exposure to staining is a likelihood.
Semi-Aniline Leather
The process for a semi-aniline leather is very similar to the aniline leather above, but in order to provide a slightly more durable finish a topcoat with some pigment is added, and this provides an extra degree of stain resistancy and a more uniform colour across the hide. The downside is that some of the character of the leather is lost, it will feel stiffer, colder to the touch, and wont have the same “fluid” look on an upholstered piece.
Pigmented Leather
Lower grade hides that have significant scarring and marks tend to be coloured using a paint topcoat such as polyurethane, and other topcoats for protection or effect may also be applied. The top surface may also be scoured back, and a mechanical grain stamped on it, this is known as Corrected Grain leather. These processes have the advantage of making a very durable and consistent looking leather, free of characteristics, but the suppleness will have been lost and replaced with a colder plastic feel, and the hides will lose their unique markings and will appear uniform.
Hide Sizes and Cutting Areas
Hide sizes can vary considerably, and depend on the age, species and sex of the cow. Most European cow hides range between 40 to 60 square feet and are an irregular shape, so need to be considered when covering large items as extra stitch lines may be required to join up multiple hides.
To the right is a guide to the typical cutting sizes available on a 50 square foot hide.
It is worth remembering that on the aniline and semi-aniline hides there will be marks and scars that appear in the centre of the hide, and will be visible on the final piece. In our opinion these are part of
the character of top quality leather, and add to the appeal of a piece that will just get better-looking with time.
